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How to Battle Cyanobacteria

What To Do When You Just Can't Get Rid of It

© Heather Allan

Cellular Structure of Cyanobacteria, http://www.wetwebmedia.com/bluegralgae.htm
Cyanobacteria can be tricky to get rid of, but with these tips you will be sure to beat it with some patience and a little work.

The presence of Cyanobacteria, more commonly known as Blue-Green or Red-Slime algae in aquaria, needs to be rectified as quickly as possible because of the toxins it releases into the water column; however, too many make the mistake of buying chemicals to rid themselves of the problem immediately. There are always side effects and when dealing with a reef environment, this is especially hazardous due to the delicate balance of the ecosystem. It is then more viable to find the source of the problem itself.

Nitrates

High nitrates are almost exclusively the initial problem that can lend itself to an algae bloom. The best offense in getting rid of Cyano is prevention. You need to be sure your water conditions are pristine. So what do you do when in spite of being a conscientious reef keeper an attack of Cyanobacteria presents itself?

Water

Water changes can be your best friend where this bacterium, which is actually closer to bacteria in scientific form than true algae, is concerned. A good idea is to make a large water change as soon as you can in the realm of fifty percent. In addition, you will want to be vacuuming any areas that you can visibly see the nuisance algae. A commercial vacuum for fish tanks, or a turkey baster designated to the task will also work effectively. Top up the tank with reverse osmosis de-ionized (RO-DI) water premixed with a good commercial salt mix and be sure to never use tap water as it contains traces of nitrate producing elements, along with chlorine and like cleaning agents that are extremely harmful to delicate fish and invertebrate life. In a couple of days, repeat the process of large water changes until your nitrates reach undetectable levels.

Protein Skimmer

Your second closest friend should be your protein skimmer. It is necessary to make sure that your skimmer is producing approximately one cup of dark skimate daily. Many do-it-yourself and cheaper skimmers do not do a very thorough job. Make sure you check all the lines going into and out of the skimmer, and that the inner tubes are clean. A baby bottle’s brush can come in handy to reach into the harder areas.

Lighting

Since Cyanobacteria are especially nasty to the aquarist, it can be difficult to remove once it’s been established. If water changes have not begun to make a significant difference in a month or so of diligence, check your light fixtures to be sure they are not over six months old for compact fluorescents, and 9 months old for other types of higher output. This alga prefers the spectrum of light in the lower levels and it might be worth a try to remove any actinic bulbs in your fixture for the time being. Also, check to be sure you are not overstocked on life in your tank. The more animals, the more detritus they will be making so, a regular vacuuming schedule of the substrate and the addition of a janitorial crew are good preventative measures.

If none of this is feasible to your setup or in spite of having tried these you still have an outbreak, as a last resort, you may try a dose of a commercial Red-Slime cure or Formalin. These will have side effects, but if your outbreak is sufficient to cause vast amounts of damage, such as black-band disease, being cruel to be kind may be your best option at that point.


The copyright of the article How to Battle Cyanobacteria in Aquariums is owned by Heather Allan. Permission to republish How to Battle Cyanobacteria in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.





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